Heart of Arabia
Starting in 2010, Richard Wilding spent a decade with unique access to travel extensively throughout Saudi Arabia, photographing the Kingdom’s archaeology, historical architecture, traditional costumes, and crafts. Since that time, he has witnessed tremendous change, with the country transforming economically, culturally, and socially.
The Kingdom’s venerable heritage sites, artisanal crafts, and diverse regional identities are now being preserved and revitalised. For the first time, the heart of Arabia can be explored by all through the development of heritage tourism as part of the Vision 2030 initiative.
Qahtan
The Qahtan tribe resides in the southwest of Saudi Arabia, between the provinces of ‘Asir and Najran. Their traditional mud-brick houses are decorated with striking geometric designs painted in bold and colourful patterns. The most intricate decoration is usually found in the majlis, a large room for receiving guests. Horizontal bands of protruding slate are built into the exteriors of taller buildings to prevent their mud walls from eroding from the frequent heavy rain.
‘Asir
‘Asir means “difficult” in Arabic, and this province in the south-west of Saudi Arabia is well known for its mountainous terrain. The region can be unexpectedly green and fertile, as it receives more rainfall than the rest of the Kingdom. Until the 1950s, ‘Asir was largely unknown to the outside world, and this remoteness helped preserve its distinctive cultural heritage. Buildings in ‘Asir are constructed without cement, using small pieces of slate slotted between larger stones adorned with bands of white quartz. Inside their homes, women decorate the walls with geometric patterns and tree-like motifs in a style called Al-Qatt Al-‘Asiri.
Hegra
Hegra, in north-west Saudi Arabia, was settled by the Nabateans in the second century BCE. Although few remains of their ancient city are visible above ground, the Nabateans left behind remarkable tombs carved into the surrounding rocky outcrops. Spread over a 15 km2 area; the tombs feature inscriptions above their entrances stating the names of people entitled to be buried there. Several unfinished tombs show how they were carved from the top down, allowing the craftsmen to stand on a ledge to carve the rockface as they descended.
The Flower Men of ‘Asir
The Flower Men of the Qahtan tribe originally inhabited the cliff-top village of Habala in ‘Asir. They adorn their hair with wreaths made of locally grown flowers and herbs. These are primarily worn for decoration, although the plants also have supposed medicinal properties. Until the 1990s, when the first cable cars were built, some villages in this region could only be accessed by a network of handrails and rope ladders. Despite their affinity for flowers, in the past, these isolated tribesmen developed a reputation for combat and fierce resistance to outsiders.
The Doors of Al Balad
One of the distinctive architectural features in Al Balad, the historical centre of Jeddah, are the traditional wooden doors. These were originally carved from teak, but more recently, they were also made from metal while still incorporating the same styles of decoration. Pilgrims travelling to Makkah contributed to the diverse regional influences seen in the doors. Floral and elliptical patterns reflect the Indian subcontinent, while geometric motifs can be traced to Syria, Egypt, and North Africa. Ottoman and European influences have also played a significant role.
Al Balad
Al Balad is the historical centre of Jeddah, a city known as the Bride of the Red Sea. Since the 7th century CE, Jeddah has served as the port of arrival for Muslim pilgrims travelling to nearby Makkah, many of whom settled in Al Balad and influenced its vibrant, cosmopolitan character. The unique architecture of Al Balad includes magnificent tower houses adorned with roshan balconies, which were constructed in the late 19th century by wealthy merchants. Coral blocks, mined from the Red Sea, were used as a substitute for stone in many buildings.
Najran
Najran is a picturesque town at the heart of a lush oasis. The area is renowned for its mud houses, ancient palaces, and abundant palm groves. South of modern Najran lie the ruins of the old walled city of al-Ukhdud, an important stop on the incense route. Caravans from Yemen would divide here, with some continuing north-west towards Egypt and the Levant and others heading north-east towards the Gulf and Mesopotamia.
Al Bahah
Nestled between the rugged mountains of ‘Asir to the west and the emptiness of the Rub’ al Khali desert to the east, Al Bahah, known as the region of 1,001 towers, is characterised by stone and slate observation towers constructed for the protection of villages, crops, and livestock. Dhee Ain, a village perched on a white marble rocky outcrop, offers a picturesque scene with a backdrop of majestic grey mountains and vibrant banana fields in the foreground. Though abandoned for several decades, the village has now been authentically restored, allowing visitors to explore its steep, narrow streets once again.
Bir Hima
Bir Hima, located north of Najran on the edge of the great Rub’ Al Khali desert, includes around 100 separate sites with petroglyph rock carvings dating back 7,000 years. Over 6,400 carvings have been documented, including 1,800 depictions of camels, ibex, lions, ostriches, and cattle. The petroglyphs also portray human figures engaged in hunting scenes and ritual dances. Numerous inscriptions in languages such as Ancient South Arabian, Thamudic, Greek, and Arabic have also been discovered.
